On a crisp morning in mid-December, I found myself waking up in the upper bunk of our Amtrak Southwest Chief family suite. The rhythmic rumble of the train pulled me from my dreams. Carefully climbing down the ladder, I noticed my husband and our five-year-old daughter still peacefully slumbering below.
I settled into a gray bench by the window and pulled back the blue curtains. As we rolled through the vast desert of Holbrook, Arizona, I was captivated by the stunning peach-pink clouds illuminated by the sunrise. In that moment, it felt as if I had stepped into a Wes Anderson film, where trains often play a central role.
Traveling by train through the expansive Southwest to New Mexico during winter is an experience that evokes childlike wonder, something you simply can’t get when flying. We opted for the 16-hour overnight journey rather than a quick two-hour flight to Albuquerque, craving a different way to travel—a way to slow down amidst our hectic lives.
While we spent half the trip sleeping, the rest of the time was dedicated to soaking in the beautiful scenery through the panoramic windows of the Sightseer Lounge. After indulging in a three-course steak dinner, we arrived in Albuquerque by 11 AM.
For those contemplating an 800-mile journey by train for the first time, there are a few unique considerations compared to flying or driving. Depending on your chosen accommodations, traveling Amtrak’s Southwest Chief to Chicago can be more costly than flying. However, there are many ways to stay within budget whether you’re traveling with kids, solo, or with friends or a partner.
Continue reading for tips on the Amtrak experience and recommendations on what to do, where to eat, and accommodations in New Mexico. If you’re lucky, you might even get to experience the dreamy snowfall in the “Land of Enchantment.”
Early birds get the best deals. Be sure to book your tickets from Union Station in LA to Albuquerque as soon as possible, especially if you’re seeking the more desirable accommodations like family suites, which can comfortably fit two adults and two children. While coach seats are economical, the option to lay down and truly sleep in a private room can make a world of difference.
Roomettes and bedrooms can accommodate two adults, though the former might feel a bit cramped. If you want more space, the bedroom suite comprises two adjoining roomettes. Some rooms have private bathrooms and showers, while others offer shared facilities, so choose according to your needs.
One of the perks of having a private suite is that it’s considered first-class, with dedicated attendants providing bedtime service and luggage assistance, as well as complimentary dining in the dining car.
If you find yourself apprehensive about the hustle and bustle of LAX during the holidays, think of Union Station as its more laid-back sibling. The east garage at Union Station usually has overnight parking available for just $8 per day. (If you’re planning to park for three nights or more, be sure to download and fill out a parking request form from the Union Station website and submit it to the parking office in the east district.)
If you need to check bags or are traveling with family, plan to arrive at least an hour before your train departs; thirty minutes is usually sufficient otherwise. If you’re in first class, don’t forget to take advantage of the Amtrak Station Lounge while waiting for your train, where you can enjoy complimentary snacks and drinks.
Make sure to pack a small overnight bag. If you’re checking luggage, bring along a compact bag that can fit in the overhead compartment by your room or seat. (Smaller rooms may not accommodate larger carry-on items, requiring you to store them outside of your private area, so being prepared with an overnight bag will ease access to your belongings.)
Don’t forget a multi-plug splitter to charge multiple devices since parlors typically only have one outlet. Earplugs are helpful to drown out the train’s rumble at night. And carry small bills for tipping the first-class attendants and servers.
Amtrak trains will arrive at the Rail Runner station in downtown Albuquerque. From there, you can book a Turo rental car, which can be delivered to your location, or head to an Enterprise rental location about a mile away (be sure to call ahead for their free pickup service). Alternatively, you can take an Uber or hop on a free local bus to the Albuquerque International Airport rental center, where more options await.
To reach Santa Fe, you have the choice of driving an hour or purchasing a ticket for the New Mexico Rail Runner Express, which takes about an hour and a half to reach Santa Fe Depot, just half a mile from downtown Santa Fe.
**Albuquerque Botanical Garden’s River of Lights**
**Accommodation:** The historic Hotel Andaluz is merely a five-minute walk from the Albuquerque train station and serves as the perfect base for exploration. This Moorish-style hotel boasts ample privacy, stunning casbah-inspired alcoves in the lobby, a cozy library with a fireplace, and Spanish tapas available at the Más wine bar.
**Dining:** Enjoy a New Mexican-style breakfast at Central Grill and Coffee House, where delicious dishes like burritos and chilaquiles are enhanced by either red or green chile sauce. Can’t choose? Opt for “Christmas style,” which combines both! For a modern gastro experience with more options, head to the bustling Sawmill Market or 505 Central Food Hall for a variety of yummy eats, including Detroit-style pizza, ramen, and tacos.
**Activities:** Old Town Albuquerque is a year-round destination filled with Pueblo-Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops, and restaurants. During the holiday season, the square shines brightly with farolitos, which are also known as luminarias—traditional paper lanterns in the Southwest.
On Christmas Eve, you can buy tickets for a 45-minute Luminaria Tour bus, which travels through beautifully decorated streets. The ABQ BioPark Botanical Garden holds its annual River of Lights special event from November 30 to December 30, showcasing over 700 illuminated displays along a 1.5-mile trail.
For winter sports, head to the Sandia Peak Ski Area located just 35 miles northeast of Albuquerque. Families can enjoy the expansive Explora interactive museum.
**Santa Fe: A Traditional Stroll Down Art Avenue**
**Accommodation:** During the holidays, the lobby of Inn of the Governors transforms into a cozy retreat adorned with festive decorations, crackling fireplaces, and complimentary sherry and biscochitos (the official cookie of New Mexico, spiced with cinnamon and anise) during welcome hours. Del Charro restaurant and bar offers guests a free deluxe breakfast, with the restaurant open until midnight on most days.
**Dining:** Café Pasqual’s is a perennial favorite, known for its vibrant atmosphere and organic New Mexican cuisine featuring colorful papel picado. There’s even a communal table for solo travelers to connect with new friends. The Shed, a local landmark for over 71 years, is popular for margaritas, posole, and red chile enchiladas.
**Activities:** The Canyon Road Farolito Walk on Christmas Eve is a cherished tradition in Santa Fe, where thousands stroll the art-lined street to enjoy Christmas lights. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden also hosts La Luz de las Noches from December 19 to 31, featuring farolito lights, musical performances, and festive food and drink.
If you’re craving snow activities, head 35 miles east of downtown to the Santa Fe Ski Area, which will debut a new high-speed lift this winter. And don’t miss the immersive art experience at Meow Wolf or catch a film at the Jean Cocteau Cinema, the theater owned by Game of Thrones creator George R.R. Martin.
This enchanting Amtrak journey to New Mexico is a must-do this winter—just make sure to book soon!
